Explore the Flavors of Los Llanos
Los Llanos is a geographical region of northern South America spread between Colombia and Venezuela in the Orinoco River basin. Found between the peaks of the snow-clad Andes and the sweltering lowlands of tropical Amazonia, Los Llanos is a yawning expanse of prairies and wetlands extending across the border into Venezuela and draining into the Orinoco basin.
This is Colombia profunda, sparsely populated and amazingly traditional, so off the beaten track that the only places for visitors to stay are modest farmsteads and guesthouses (hatos) located on vast cattle farms, where the cowboy lifestyle still reigns supreme.
The Colombian Eastern Plains occupy 214,000 square kilometers/82,626 square miles and comprise the four departments of Arauca, Casanare, Vichada and Meta.
The inhabitants of the region, the Llaneros, are cheerful, hospitable people and outstanding horsemen.
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Colombian cuisine is extremely diverse, with so many traditional dishes that even if you were to visit all the main regions, you would still miss out on so many of them.
Colombian cuisine has developed from native indigenous, Spanish and African influences and varies distinctly in each of the six natural regions due to the immense availability of fresh and unique ingredients.
Discover with us some of the principal traditional dishes from the Llanos and Orinoco region, one that you should definitely visit on your trip to Colombia.
A region as hot and humid, as dusty and wild as Los Llanos has food that suits its character, its people and its sometimes harsh weather conditions.
Food reflects society and In Los Llanos it is blunt, simple and hearty. It is also so amazing that it is being imitated all around Colombia. The beef, carne llanera, has become almost synonymous with Llano culture. Early non-indigenous settlers found themselves challenged.
Arriving in Los Llanos from the cold altitudes of the Andean highlands, they were not familiar with agricultural practices on the Llanos. Their favoured potatoes, onions and much of their fruit did not thrive on the plains.
Eventually they learned to cultivate yuca, papaya, avocado and plantains. With their own recipes and eating habits, this created an entirely new mix of food culture. The vast and lush plains offered ideal conditions for raising cattle and rice cultivation, while the rivers were rich in fish.
Today Llanero cuisine is copied all around Colombia and its beef is considered the best in the country. While many think that beef is all there is to Los Llanos, the region also provides delicious fish dishes, soups and incredible fruits.
Typical dishes from the Llanos (Orinoco) Region
The eastern part of Colombia offers traditional food that transcends from beef, capybara meat and regional fish.
The Eastern Plains have an exclusive and exotic cuisine.
The most famous dish of the Llanos, and perhaps the most spectacular of Colombia’s immensely varied regional cuisines, is their barbecue.
Large cuts of meat are skewered on six-foot-long poles that are leaned vertically toward pits, smoldering with hardwood fires. Six to eight hours of slow cooking later, the fat has rendered into a crisp shell and the meat is tender enough to shred with the fingers while still retaining plenty of moisture and a divine aroma.
Seasoning is sparse – most often just a heavy sprinkle of salt and perhaps a splash of cerveza (beer). It is the flavor of the hardwood that dominates.
Pisillo de Chigüiro
An odd-looking animal consumed in the Llanos of Colombia is the capybara (chigüiro). This giant rodent inhabits the plains of Colombia and Venezuela all the way down to the south of the continent.
The meat is shredded and seasoned with garlic, onions and local herbs, then cooked until tender. It is most often served with rice, yuca and plantains.
While capybara is not commonly eaten universally, in the Llanos, it is a traditional and culturally significant source of protein. Chigüiro meat is very tasty especially when well-seasoned with salt and onion.
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Mamona
Also known as Ternera a la Llanera, thanks to the abundant livestock so typical of the Llanos, one of its most acclaimed dishes is mamona, roast veal, slightly salted and slowly roasted on those vertical poles around an outdoor fire.
The dish is accompanied by yuca, seasoned potatoes, plantains, salad and guacamole. Ají, a slightly spicy chili sauce, is drizzled over the meat and vegetables. This is the traditional BBQ of the region and is widely available.
Cachapas Llaneras
This is a traditional Llanera dish made from fresh corn, which is ground into a paste and mixed with sugar, salt and butter. The resulting batter is then spread onto a griddle or skillet and cooked until golden brown.
Cachapas are sweet as well as savory, with a slightly crispy exterior and a soft, moist, delicate interior. Cachapas are often served with butter, cheese and avocado. They can also be filled with ham, chicken, or beef, similar to arepas.
Cachapas are a popular breakfast dish in the Llanos and can also be enjoyed as a snack or a side dish with other meals.
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Hallacas
These Llanos tamales encapsulate the essence of family, community and festivity. The hallmark of a great hallaca is the plantain leaves that envelop it.
The heartwarming tradition of making hallacas is much like a culinary treasure hunt. From the seasoned meats to the vibrant spices, hallacas are a cherished tradition during festive occasions.
Arepas Llaneras
Like many regions in Colombia, the Llanos has its own version of arepas. These are typically larger and thicker than those found in other parts of the country and often filled with cheese or meat.
An arepa is a flat disc made from corn flour and is sturdy, unlike a tortilla. They come in many sizes, from small to very large, while they can be grilled, baked, fried, boiled or steamed. They are a staple food and can be enjoyed at any time of day.
Arepas reflect the region’s reliance on fresh, local ingredients and its deep connection to the Llanos and its waterways. Arepas can be both symbols of regional differences and national understanding.
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Fish
Though they do not quite share the same deserved fame and spotlight as the barbecue, fried fish and rice and corn-based breads are ubiquitous foodstuffs in the Llanos.
Fresh river fish like the large amarillo or the piraña-shaped cachama are caught and cooked up coastal-style, served with two types of fried plantains, the smashed green plantain known as patacones and the sweet, ripe plantain called maduros.
After a quick dusting in highly seasoned corn meal, the fish goes into the fryer where it crisps up within minutes. Served with the highly acidic orange-fleshed limes of the region, it is moist, juicy, well-balanced and perfectly satisfying, without any of the muddy flavors that farm-raised freshwater fish can carry.
Ají Llanero – Los Llanos Orientales Hot Sauce
Ají Llanero is a traditional hot sauce from Los Llanos Orientales. Also known in Colombia as Ají Llanero de Leche, Ají Pique Llanero and Ajicero.
There are different versions of this hot sauce depending on the family, cook. This recipe is very simple and traditional, but you can add more ingredients to your taste. It is served typically with soups and stews, but also delicious over grilled meats, fish and vegetables.
Recipe:
Ingredients
- 1 red pepper chopped
- ½ habanero or ají pique chopped
- 1 garlic clove chopped
- 1 ½ cups warm milk
- 2 tablespoons chopped scallions
- 1 tablespoon cilantro chopped
- Salt and pepper to you taste
Instructions:
- Mix all the ingredients well in a glass container.
- Let rest for a minimum of 3 hours before using.
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