Comuna 3 Manrique Medellin
Perched high atop the mountain side surrounding the Aburrá Valley, Manrique, also known as Comuna 3, is one of the 16 Comunas (Communes) of Medellín that forms part of the city’s northeast zone.
The violence that plagued Colombia over the years displaced hundreds of thousands of campesinos (poor people) from their rural lands. The last wave of violence chronicled in eastern Antioquia, between 1998 and 2007 left these lands wiped out.
Displaced campesinos gradually populated Medellín’s mountain slopes, arriving with nowhere else to go. The conflict forced four out of ten of them to leave their homes. Waves of migrants have tamed the slopes, turning them into a city of their own. Geography defines social classes, with the poorest living in districts farthest from the centro (downtown). Those closest to the summits were the last to arrive.
As people flocked to Medellín, informal neighborhoods spread beyond the historic center, creating settlements on the verdant slopes. On the city’s eastern edge, rural migrants fleeing violence built makeshift houses on steep terrain. Over time, this sprawl became Manrique, Comuna 3, now home to over 160,000 residents.
The trek up
We work with and recommend booking flights with www.kiwi.com
However, the district became associated with poverty and drug violence, deterring outsiders from exploring its vibrant streets.
Medellín was once infamous as the world’s murder capital and a hub for organized crime in the Americas. Even before the Medellín Cartel, the city faced various forms of violence.
In the mid-20th century, vast numbers of rural inhabitants saw Medellín as a refuge, fleeing political violence ravaging the countryside.
Migrants’ hopes for a better life faded as gangs recruited youths, locals faced the same groups they had fled, and new violent groups emerged.
Government abandonment allowed for armed groups to gain power. Figures including the likes of Pablo Escobar became Robin Hoods. Those with guns became authorities in their barrios, making their own rules and executing their own form of justice.
Nowadays Manrique, Comuna 3 is a vibrant and dynamic neighbourhood of Medellín. Built into the precipitous mountain sides, it provides breath taking views of the city and is flush with cultural heritage. Known for its lively streets, colourful murals and bustling markets, Comuna 3 is a testament to the resilience and creativity of its residents.
In recent years, the community has embarked on a new journey, aiming to radically change its unflattering image. In 2022, efforts peaked as hundreds of houses in Balcones del Jardín, Brisas del Jardín, and San José de la Cima were brightly painted, transforming the area into an open-air gallery.
Fabulous 3-D mural
Collectively known as the Macromural Constelaciones/Macro Mural, this art project encompasses more than 500 homes and nearly 15,000 square meters, making it by far the city’s largest work of art. Artists painted some walls in solid, vibrant shades, while others adorned them with detailed murals depicting everyday life and the area’s broader history.
Illustrious characters, endemic plants and animals, traditions and symbols of family life are all seamlessly woven into the colourful façades of Comuna 3. Interestingly, in many cases, the murals take their colours and shapes from the hillsides and streets, creating a dialogue with the environment.
Begin organizing your dream Colombian getaway right away by using our Plan My Trip page!
For example, one can admire a painted figure carrying farm produce along a steep descent that mirrors the nearby hilly street, or a playful, three-dimensional illusion that makes an otherwise unassuming building, a monument to admire.
The area is also home to innovative urban projects and social initiatives aimed at improving the quality of life for its inhabitants. A visit to Comuna 3 provides a unique and authentic experience, showcasing the spirit and transformation of Medellín.
“Convite is a sacred word; it is when the community comes together to work for the common good, based on a dialogue of knowledge. A convite without a community pot and food is not a convite.” So said Cielo, a community leader in Medellín.
A Convite is the celebration of collective actions that result from solidarity and empathy networks among urban dwellers. In Medellín, Convite has been a social, cultural and technological tool to build urban infrastructure at the neighbourhood level, with a city scale impact. During a Convite, learning and knowledge exchange is essential to achieve common goals. In a Convite everyone has knowledge and expertise that can be shared and transferred through storytelling and collective practice. Medellín is a city transformed significantly by urban Convites.
At the highest point of Comuna 3, named Bello Oriente, is where you can catch sight far below, of centro/city centre. There is a community hall here, mostly run by women, Paradise, which has operated for 18 years. Social movements and collectives gather on the slopes outside and hold bazaars for clothing and appliance exchange. The area’s farm network and gardeners meet here and various other groups from the neighbourhood put on food festivals to raise funds.
This extensive network of convites also includes training and educational places, informal exchange markets and community and family vegetable gardens.
Also too there is Choco con Amor, a restaurant run by Señora Melida and her daughter Telma. Melida has been through it all and come out the other side to have her own successful business, now assisted by Telma. They make the most delicious food, including divine yuca with campesino (farm) cheese empanadas, accompanied by a moorish avocado dip.
Arepas (cornmeal cakes) are fundamental to any meal in Colombia and here in Comuna 3 there is a small community that makes them fresh daily for much of the city. They are hand made in the kitchens of several houses, packed and then dispatched by moto (motor cycle).
These are just a couple of examples of how people have been able to haul themselves up out of depravity to success, much achieved by Convites.
Colourful display on the mountain
To enjoy the Comuna 3 neighbourhood artwork in its fullest glory go to the park along Carrera 36. This has been created around the area’s former water reservoir, constructed in 1901, for hydro-electricity. The massive pipe carrying the water that travels down the mountain and into humungous tanks is visible. The original machinery to operate the reservoir is still there and interesting to see.
Hydro-electric powerplant
Take the first step in planning your dream Colombian vacation by using our Plan My Trip page now!
The reservoir at the park
The large square, open to the public, offers a breath taking vista from below of the colourfully painted homes. While the uphill journey to Comuna 3 is neither easy, nor short, it is well worth the effort.
View from the reservoir up the mountain
Like to create or customize a fantastico package tour of Colombia? Use our Plan My Trip page to start planning your dream Colombian vacation now!