NOCTURNAL TOUR OF COMUNA 13
(NOCHE EN LA 13)
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Experience the pulse of transformation on our fascinating Nocturnal Tour of Comuna 13 in Medellín, where the past meets the present in a vivid explosion of art, culture, and resilience. Once overshadowed by violence, this hillside neighbourhood has reinvented itself as a beacon of creativity and community pride.
The comuna at nightfall
As the evening settles over Medellín, make your way into the lively core of Comuna 13. The streets here are alive with motion and meaning, lit by the city’s warm glow and the striking murals that cover nearly every wall.
First, a reminder of the dramatic history of Comuna 13:
Comuna 13, is a set of neighbourhoods located in the city of Medellín, Colombia. It is one of the most historically marginalized and violent sections of the city, but in recent years it has undergone a remarkable transformation.
The history of Comuna 13 is rooted in poverty and violence. In the 1980s, for twenty years, the area was plagued by political violence, as well as all that related to the drug trade, guerrillas, and paramilitaries. The residents of Comuna 13, who were mostly working class, were caught in the crossfire, and many were forced to flee their homes. By the early 2000s, the situation in Comuna 13 had become dire, with high levels of poverty and crime and few public services or opportunities for residents. By this time, Comuna 13 was under the complete control of guerrillas of the ELN and FARC, who were the main protagonists. The Orión operation in Comuna 13 was carried out by the Colombian National Police and the Colombian Armed Forces. The invasion was led by the National Police and involved the deployment of hundreds of police officers and soldiers to the area. They were also supported by the Colombian Air Force, which provided air support, and the Colombian Navy, which helped to secure the area’s waterways. It has been said that some of the residents participated in the operation as well, helping the police and military to identify the criminal groups and their leaders.
Over the past decade, Comuna 13 has undergone a significant transformation. The city government, in partnership with community-based organizations, has implemented a number of social and infrastructure projects aimed at improving the lives of residents. One of the most notable examples is the construction of a new public transportation system, called the Metro cable, which connects Comuna 13 to the rest of the city. This has improved access to jobs, education, and other opportunities for residents. Additionally, the city has invested in public spaces and recreational facilities, such as playgrounds and community centres, which have helped to improve the quality of life in the neighbourhood.
Another key aspect of the transformation of Comuna 13 has been a focus on art and culture. Murals and other forms of street art have been used to beautify the area and promote a sense of community pride. Many of the murals in Comuna 13 are focused on themes of peace, social justice, and resilience, which reflect the experiences of the residents.
The transformation of Comuna 13 has not been without its challenges. Despite the progress that has been made, some of the neighbourhoods still face a number of issues, including poverty and lack of access to basic services. Additionally, the displacement of residents and destruction of homes and businesses to make way for new infrastructure projects has caused tension among some members of the community.
Despite these challenges, the transformation of Comuna 13 serves as a powerful example of how a community-based approach to urban development can help to improve the lives of residents in marginalized communities. It also highlights how investment in public transportation, public spaces, art, and culture can create a healthier and more liveable community for all.
Today, Comuna 13 is telling a completely different story. It is a vibrant and unique place that has undergone significant transformation in recent years.
On our Noche en la 13 tour, you will have the opportunity to see first-hand the positive changes that have taken place, including new infrastructure, public spaces, and community programs. Learn all about the torrid history of Comuna 13, including the Orión operation and how the community has worked to overcome the challenges it faced and to explore the comuna’s many cultural and artistic offerings.
The evening begins with a comfortable ride across Medellín in a comfortable, air-conditioned minibus to Comuna 13. The light is fading, and one appreciates the vastness of the city.
Comuna 13 is high up on the steep mountainside, and one wonders how indeed any structure could be constructed on such a sheer slope, much less than an entire municipality.
Walking along narrow, winding streets, taking good care to avoid the voluminous motorcycles, wall art abounds and is very striking and impressive. The first stop is at an open area with a sheer drop of several hundred feet at the back. Down below is a dirt playing field which is occupied by any number of young people playing mostly soccer.
Light refreshments are on offer before an introductory talk on the history of the Comuna and since music is, of course, very important in Latin America – no less here in the Comuna – everyone is given a makeshift drum and sticks, and after some encouragement, it is your chance to join in the fun.
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Graffiti is another highlight of the night and considered that it is all around the place, it is only natural that you make your own mark.
A long table is laid out with linen shopping bags and cans of spray paint, all colours of the rainbow. Meanwhile, young local graffiti experts guide you in making your own impression on the linen bag, which is yours to keep. This exercise is a lot of fun, and some end up with more graffiti on their person rather than the bag.
Make your own graffiti
Suddenly, a band strikes up, and before you know it, you are encompassed by a group of players, singers, and dancers with infectious melodies from an Afro-Colombian heritage. They lead the way around the crowded streets, all the while creating a fabulous atmosphere.
Street Band
The views of the city of Medellín are truly amazing. The artwork is on one side and a sheer drop on the other, while the music invites inspiration and a sense of anticipation.
Arriving at the base of a long, very narrow, twisting staircase, you must gird up your loins and ascend to the very top. It is quite a feat of navigation before one squeezes through a tiny door into a restaurant with one of the most sensational views anywhere in the world. It completely takes your breath away.
Restaurant view
The furnishings are rustic and basic, just right for the occasion. Antique pieces from the Comuna, paired with striking wall art, make you feel entirely immersed in this extraordinary place.
Picada
The menu is typical Colombian paisa, very tasty and fully appropriate for the evening that is in it. Very helpful young waiters are happy to talk about their lives in the Comuna.
Paisa dinner in a box
Wall art in the restaurant
Descending the long staircase is more arduous than the ascent. However, once back on the street, the band strikes up once more and leads you past vendors of all sorts operating from small, well-lit stalls.
Escaleras Electrica
Arriving at an alcove close to the famous electric stairs, the guide asks for some hush so that he can explain the history of the Black and White hip hop group. This is a highlight of the tour, watching Black And White, a local group of talented street dancers, giving an energetic ten minute performance at the top of the escalators, an infectiously positive sign of how the community is trying to move on from the past.
They will perform an outstanding show of street dancing and tricks. The music is loud and encouraging. They pass through the crowd and invite the more adventurous to join in the excitement. Finally, it is time to go home, but not before mounting the electric staircase to take you down to the base of the Comuna. The escalator is 384 metres/1,260 feet long.
This is a fantastic experience and a night not to be missed. Of course, it is possible to visit Comuna 13 during the day; however, for a totally different and more rewarding experience, the Noche en La 13 is our suggested choice.
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